Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to discover these tales and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
