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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end establishments. Yet, situated high among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that led to their small shop securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.